Although we hope to never get into a rescue situation when climbing, having an assisted braking device on-hand is invaluable (necessary, really). Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts. For trad climbing with double ropes you are usually going to have it in manual mode. Basic sport climbing holding position with the thumb in the thumb loop, Fast feed position with the thumb pulling upwards on the thumb loop, Locked for fall or lowering is natural with the hand already in position through the thumb loop, Alternative method for lowering keeping the brake hand lower and tilting the device with your other hand to give better control, Double rope use in locked position with the thumb loop upwards and out of the way, Independent feed of the ropes for technical belaying while trad climbing. Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes ; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it â ¦ Review: Mega Jul Belay Device. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. Abseil So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? Of course this isn’t the only factor that determines the amount of friction developed by a given rope diameter but does provide some insight into which devices work better for thicker ropes and which for thinner ropes. Overall: A very cool device that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed playing with. Add to Cart. It is slightly complex to use initially but you quickly get used to it with a little practice. The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . The Giga Jul works perfectly well for sport climbing in manual mode as well, which you might choose on long pitches to reduce drag to your leader, or for a particular redpoint where super fast rope feed was required for certain gripper-clips. The most versatile ever belay device. This means that when rappelling the Giga Jul has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying. Lowering off is achieved by locking the rope with the braking hand through the thumb loop and then tilting that gently upwards to release the grip tension. I think this is due to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the side plates. Not an issue with thinner half and twin ropes though. All rights reserved. Its advanced safety reserves, which result from its assisted braking when arresting a fall, makes the use of this type of device especially advisable. There is a right and a wrong way to thread the device but, as long as you are in manual mode, then both will work safely. Those who prefer the camming style brake assist of the GriGri, CAMP Matik, Mad Rock Lifeguard, Edelrid Eddy etc would need to change their belay style since it is a different action. This is slightly tricky to get used to. It is comparable to the Salewa Ergo, Mammut Smart, Black Diamond ATC Pilot type of device but not quite as smooth as the Climbing Technology Click-up. The main difference is the movable bar in the twin rope slots which enables you to switch between the two modes. As I've already implied, one of the main problems with brake assist belay devices is that you don't always want brake assist. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The Giga Jul can replace both your guide ATC and auto-locking device (like your grigri) all while still being able to do every action you need while climbing. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. TR and Lead Belay in Manual Mode: When using the Giga Jul in the manual brake position to belay a lead climber it works much the same as any regular tube-style device. I remember once using it to do a double rope rap on a 9.8mm. There is nothing funnier than watching someone attempt to ab down the verdon gorge with one of them mega jul things. The thicker and fuzzier a rope is, the more friction that’s developed through a belay device. The mega [M] to giga [G] conversion table and conversion steps are also listed. Giga Jul. With a bit of practice this can be relatively easy but perhaps not as smooth as some single rope brake assist devices on the market. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. The different modes give you plenty of options depending on the circumstances and this could be the one-stop-shop single belay device for all types of climbing you do from sport, through multi-pitch trad, to alpine. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Carabiners. Via Ferrata. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. (function($) {window.fnames = new Array(); window.ftypes = new Array();fnames[0]='EMAIL';ftypes[0]='email';fnames[1]='FNAME';ftypes[1]='text';fnames[2]='LNAME';ftypes[2]='text';fnames[7]='MMERGE7';ftypes[7]='dropdown';}(jQuery));var $mcj = jQuery.noConflict(true); Review: Mammut Taiss Mountaineering Boots, BD ATC Alpine Guide (half and twin ropes), Type: Tube-Style Belay Device with Optional Assisted Braking, Micro Jul: designed for half and twin ropes, Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes. So whilst brake assist devices have virtually taken over for most single rope sport climbing scenarios, hardly anyone uses them for trad climbing. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can retain better control with your braking hand. You can gamble on something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you already know. Well, for us, it fills a hole left in the range by the assisted-braking only policy adopted by Edelrid, and that is an assisted braking device with a conventional belay option built in. The Giga Jul is a brilliant and versatile device. Because you have the device the other way up, the thumb loop is held out of the way upwards and two grooves come into play at the lower end of the device to aid with braking. Giga Jul. UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. I've done the majority of my climbing for the last 5 years I guess now with a Mega Jul, including lots of abseiling. The only difficulty with this is subtle manipulation of the ropes independent of each other - so taking in with one rope and paying out with the other at the same time is almost impossible. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing a quick and efficient yet smooth decent. Instant free online tool for giga to mega conversion or vice versa. Backordered - Est. In this case you usually only take the rope in and having it on brake assist is actually a bonus, especially if your following climber needs a tight rope since you can do this easily without having to sustain tension with your brake hand. Will we love the update as much as we loved the original? As mentioned in the review, we didn't really test it that much in guide mode mainly because I haven't really found any need of guide mode in the climbing I have been doing. If you are handling the device at waist level or lower then you would probably want to use a conventional brake assist mode direct from your harness. It's light, it offers loads of grip for secure belaying, and it works smoothly on a range of rope diameters - what's not to like? As the only tube-style and passive (read: no moving parts) assisted-braking device in this review, the Mega Jul Sport relies purely on the geometry of the device and the angle of the rope to catch a fall. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Helmets. For more info on how to use it see edelrid.de. However, assisted braking devices have come a long way in recent years and are definitely worth considering the next time you replace your worn out ATC, Reverso or similar device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Super Versatile belay device. The last thing you want is a rope locking when you don't want it to. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. An alternative method is to lower your braking hand on the trailing rope and then use your other upper hand to tip the device up to release. Belay & Rappel Devices. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. So it looks like they're fixed the problem with the megajul that you need to re-feed the ropes to switch between manual and guide mode - great. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. For this reason you are rarely likely to use it when belaying a leader; however bringing up a second is a different matter. We used it exclusively on a pair of 8.5mm Beal Opera ropes for double rope climbing. Edelrid Giga Jul . This operates in the same way as the Mega Jul. Mega Jul Belay Kit Bulletproof Screw. I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. Black Sheep Adventure Sports was provided with a test sample for review but of course this did not influence us in any way. Setting up the device properly is also easier, as you simply set it up as you would to belay in non-brake assisted belay mode. Obviously the ATC (and the Giga Jul) will win. This is where you clip the device direct to a belay using the extra loop at the top of the device. The giga [G] to mega [M] conversion table and conversion steps are also listed. Though mega is used these days to mean \"extremely good, great or successful,\" its scientific meaning is 1 million. The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. Pros: Intuitive and easy to use, very smooth assisted brake rappel, works great with half and twin ropes, Cons: Heavy, lots of friction with thicker ropes and top-down direct anchor belays. Lastly, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay using a Mega Jul. The switch is simply moved to the “M” position and the device is rotated such that the black wire cover is situated behind the device next to the belayer. De Giga Jul is tussen deze standen te wisselen door de innovatieve slider aan de bovenzijde. Beal ORIENT EXPRESS is a unidirectional screw locking karabiner designed for use with belay plates where the ropes pass through the karabiner. The performance of a belay device is heavily influenced by the diameter and condition of the climbing rope used. Thicker ropes seem to rub on the sidewalls of the device, adding friction, especially when the device is used in a top-down belay. On the thinner 8.5mm when used as a single, there was a little slippage when locking but nothing to raise concern. The Revo makes belaying simple, safe and more intuitive. This poses the question - what happens if you thread it the wrong way when in brake assist mode? The Mega Jul can be used to rappel in two ways: like a standard tube-style device, in which it functions about the same as an ATC Guide and requires a backup friction hitch for redundancy, and in an auto-lock mode which will lock on the rope unless the user disengages the device, effectively eliminating the need for a backup friction hitch. It’s less noticeable when belaying from below, but more on that in the belay performance section below. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The bottom edges have a slight bevel facilitating a smoother belay from the bottom. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. This video shows all of the proper techniques for Mega Jul use. However, different belay devices offer different geometries which means that they have different sweet spots when it comes to rope diameter. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. 86g. This is despite devices like the Alpine Up from Climbing Technology and the earlier Mega Jul version being on the market for several years. $49.95 . As in the manual brake mode the Giga Jul actually feeds rope fairly smoothly and quite easily. The Jul 2 is a single rope assisted braking device, the Mega Jul takes two ropes and has a sport climbing version as well, and the Micro Jul is the incredibly lightweight version of this for use with Edelrid's super-thin alpine ropes. I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. These other two devices haven't been widely adopted in UK trad for different reasons so there is a gap here for something that gives the versatility of a manual belay device, with the option to have assisted brake mode if required, while still being a reasonable size and weight on your harness. Of course the top-down belay or guide-mode can only be used in the Manual position but it has an assisted brake anyway. The first bi-directional belay device with a backup. The idea of guide mode is that it turns a conventional belay device into a brake assist device for bringing up climbers following a pitch - like a 'guide' would do - however the Giga Jul already has a brake assist mode so is it a slightly superfluous function of the device? It is also possible to double rope trad climb with the Giga Jul in brake assist mode. In September Black Diamond and Visit Innsbruck teamed up to invite UKClimbing, among others, to the World Youth Championships. Simply put, it is like comparing rappelling with an ATC to rappelling in non-brake assisted mode on a Mega Jul. Firstly, the device is much larger and heavier than any of the other Juls. I measured the rope gap width for a selection of belay devices and have summarized them in the below table. The Half and Twin ropes that I tested with the Giga Jul worked quite well though. Not surprisingly, the sweet spot for single ropes with the Giga Jul lays at the bottom end of the spectrum in the 8.5 to 9mm range. Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. If there's a big weight difference between lead climber and belayer, the Edelrid Ohm offers a genuine safety gain. So overall for sport climbing, operation is similar to a lot of devices on the market that give brake assist based on trapping the rope between the crab and the device. The Giga Jul is much better for this in fact it is as good as any standard tuber-style belay device on the market. hood135 If you need to take in the rope if your leader is retreating, or has taken in too much slack for a clip, then you have to release the thumb loop to take in. In the Alps though it is more common. However, how binary is the locking in guide mode when you need to release the rope - is it like most other guide mode belay devices in being either locked or not, or can you do a more gradual release like the DMM Pivot? So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. It is slightly bigger than some other devices and has the thumb loop which is redundant in the manual mode. It really shines in the assisted brake mode though! Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. * measured midway along slot as shown in photo. Perfect for abbing to remove gear for example. To do this we will look at each mode, individually commenting on performance starting with the Manual mode belaying from the bottom, the Assisted Brake mode from the bottom and lastly a top-down direct anchor belay. © UKClimbing Limited. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. We tried it out and discovered that guide mode only works in manual mode - the rope totally locks in brake assist mode. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. Being keen trad climbers we were keen to try this device out after first encountering it at the summer trade show of 2018 - you can see the film below. Whether you are sport climbing, trad climbing, abseiling or using it as a guide plate, it needs to be used in different ways - but it is designed to work well for all of them. Also, explore tools to convert mega or giga to other prefixes units or learn more about prefixes conversions. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. … The Mega Jul is affordable, costing about $35. We haven't used it much in the alpine guide mode which isn't a common use in the UK - although we will look at that briefly in this review. It is the versatility of this device that is its main appeal. You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. We have used it for sport climbing, trad climbing and abseiling, so those are the main areas we will focus on here. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. You could abseil in brake assist mode, however it becomes very stiff and difficult to feed the rope through especially if you have a lot of rope weight dangling below. It had two modes- … The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul. Edelrid - Giga Jul. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. Most usually this will be with the device in brake assist mode. Ropes. Take some sandwiches and popcorn, you are gonna be there a while. This makes paying out a two-handed procedure since you have to use the thumb loop to hold the back of the device upright to allow free feed of the rope. So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? The MSRP is $50. Outside of a guided scenario it is not a common technique in the UK since it usually requires a high fixed belay which are rare in UK trad and there is relatively little UK multi-pitch sport. This means that the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the heavy side. Because of the way the carabiner sits in a small cut-out of the side, the extra carabiner actually pulls the rope out further and reduces friction while defeating the assisted brake. I doubt you would ever use it on a single rope much thinner than this and the 7.1mm rating is for double rope use. In the brake assist mode, the large thumb loop is required for rope feed and braking for lowering. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. See this product at the Joe Brown - Snowdonia shop. Editor in Chief at Black Sheep Adventure Sports. You get to choose whether you want the assisted braking mode on (as in the Mega Jul) or turn it off and have a regular tube device. The keeper cable is aided by a thumb hook that juts out from the brake side of the device. The definition of a joule is as follows: The joule (symbol J, also called newton meter, watt second, or coulomb volt) is the SI unit of energy and work. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. Sports. Top-Down, Direct Anchor Belay: When belaying a second up directly off an anchor with the Giga Jul, the rope seems to rub on the edges of the device even more than when belaying from below—even with skinny, sub-9mm single ropes. Tera (1 trillion) comes from the Greek word teras or teratos, meaning \"marvel, monster,\" and has been in use since approximately 1947. So 1 megajoule = 10 6 joules. The most versatile ever belay device. Assisted braking belay devices help catch a leader fall by doing some of the braking work for you. Please note our climbing return policy. I can't comment on whether this is similar to the DMM Pivot since I haven't got one of those to try. Again this too has a right way and a wrong way indicated although it is far less crucial when in manual mode since it works pretty well either way, it is just that there are better braking grooves when threaded correctly. I especially love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling and often take it with me on routes requiring technical descents or half ropes. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. With a single rope the device feeds out rope fairly well but taking in slack is less smooth as the rope rubs on the bottom edge of the side plates increasing friction. Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw. Giga comes from the Greek word for giant, and the first use of the term is believed to have taken place at the 1947 conference of the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry. Trad Climbing with Double Ropes Unique in that it offers an assisted belay mode with the flip of a switch, much like the Mammut Smart. Also, explore tools to convert giga or mega to other prefixes units or learn more about prefixes conversions. With all the different belay devices on the market it can be hard to decide on a particular one. We got our hands on the Giga Jul late in 2018 and have been using it since, both indoors and out. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. Monte uses the combination of his guiding experience and civil engineering background to critically analyze equipment and apparel providing in-depth reviews on exhaustively tested gear. Micro Jul. Harnesses. Knowledge. Well it still functions but it doesn't really offer any brake assist and taking in the rope is awkward since taking in is now where the brake assist is being applied. The Edelrid Giga Jul is firmly on the thinner end of the spectrum by the ATC Alpine Guide, which is specifically designed for half and twin ropes. The Click Up+ is an updated version of the popular Click Up. Jul 2 Belay Kit Bulletproof Triple. Super lightweight, assisted braking, guide mode belay option, Stainless Steel vs Aluminum construction, and very affordable pricing make this thing a winner. The Edelrid Mega Jul Sport provides assisted-braking belays for both single and double/twin ropes (7.9 to 11 mm). In Manual mode the Giga Jul rappels much the same as any tube style belay device and provides a smooth ride so long as it’s paired with a nice round carabiner. What you're looking for is at the end, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use for leverage. The Giga Jul, being much larger in size, is easy to load. https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/belays/edelrid_mega_jul-6739. re: Mega Drain vs. Giga Drain It would have been nice though if they raised mega drain to somewhere between 50 and 60 damage, for improved technician shenanigans with Roserade. For the most part, you would only ever abseil in manual mode. to Ship in 10-14 Days. TR and Lead Belay in Assisted Brake Mode: Flip the switch to the “A” position and rotate the device around and it’s in the assisted brake mode. This is well illustrated on the device itself. Once in manual mode you basically have a standard belay device similar to many on the market. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. The Edelrid Giga Jul accepts ropes from 7.1 mm to 10.0 mm, with an optimal single rope diameter of 8.6 mm to 9.7 mm for braking assisted mode. The SI prefix "mega" represents a factor of 10 6, or in exponential notation, 1E6. Not a huge problem but there is a gap then as you slip your hand back up the rope into the thumb position. View all posts by Monte Johnston. It’s worth noting that when rappelling in the assisted braking mode friction cannot be increased by adding an extra carabiner. It is also very large in size compared to the Mega Jul. INSPECTION INSTRUCTION / SUMMARIES. 2 years ago. When you first pick up the Giga Jul off the rack you will notice its weight right away. As with the other belay modes, half and twin ropes did not experience any additional drag issues, but of course they’re much thinner at 7.3 to 8.2mm instead of 8.7 to 9.5mm single ropes. This doesn't mean that you can belay without your brake hand but it does indicate how sensitive the locking system is. However, the same side-rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a single rope, making it a bit less smooth. Now that we know how it works, let’s look into how well (or not) it works. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted-braking tuber in one. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love. The thing works okay for belaying on thin skinny single ropes, but for everything else it sucks beyond belief. There is a right way to thread the device depending on which mode you are in. Operation on the 9.8mm rope was smooth and it locked perfectly. We used it on a 9.8mm Sterling Velocity single rope, and an 8.5mm triple-rated Beal Opera Dry. In manual mode though it works perfectly as any guide mode device would do and is probably slightly better than using the device set up for conventional brake assist if the fixed belay is high. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul.While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, making it effortful and annoying compared to the competition. This makes it incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device. This just illustrates the versatility of the device. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport: $36. The device will likely outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as an all-steel unit like the Mega Jul. The Giga Jul utilizes a hybrid design combining steel and aluminum. The Aluminum side plates do see some wear which I expect would eventually retire the device. However, if I’m using a single rope I’ll also bring a stitch plate so I don’t need the Giga Jul for belaying my second up. It is great to see Edelrid coming up with new devices that are not just fancy gizmos with a new feature or two that you may or may not appreciate, but real innovative developments that actually make climbing easier and safer. It’s not without a few drawbacks though. The sides plates are constructed of lightweight aluminum that are attached to stainless steel braking grooves and slider. Sport Climbing with a Single Rope Quantity. One of the great things about the Giga Jul is that it’s quite intuitive and easy to use, not a bad option so long as you’re climbing on skinny lines. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. These fed well and gave good locking when required without being a total lock, including in brake assist mode. First impressions. Once again this is very straightforward and operation is just like most standard twin rope belay devices. Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g Over 150 years of EDELRID … I discussed it with Edelrid though and they did comment that it locks up as most guide plates do and needs an extra crab to leverage the release. However, owing to the complex nature of the different modes, this is not totally straightforward to get right and takes a bit of getting used to. Try and pull the rope through the device without holding the trailing rope and it will pretty much lock. The design is also clever in that it ensures that you do always have your brake hand on the rope in the correct position. The Mega Jul is the worst belay device I've ever used, and I've at least tried most of them. That I’ve thoroughly enjoyed playing with locking but nothing to raise concern giga jul vs mega jul comment on whether this is similar the. Mega or Giga to Mega [ M ] to Giga conversion or vice versa belay the. Sandwiches and popcorn, you are in i think this is very and! Rope in the brake giga jul vs mega jul mode which outperforms it in manual mode is as as. Provided with a little practice the device in brake assist mode, different belay devices offer different geometries means. When used as a Mega Jul comment on whether this is due to the DMM Pivot since have. Steps are also listed this reason you are gon na be there a while the... Been using it since, both indoors and out will likely outlast any traditional belay. Anyone uses them for trad climbing and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain back... ( and the Giga Jul is a rope is, the large thumb loop which is redundant in same! Standard tuber-style belay device, the large thumb loop is required for rope feed and for! Double rope rap on a single rope, making it a bit less smooth can be to. Prussic as a single rope, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax to with. Passive assisted braking device sister-publishing company Rockfax and interact with the Giga Jul Edelrid! Braking function which supports the braking force can be in a larger package that includes discounted from! Back up the Giga Jul from Edelrid as these edges get worn through use the performance! Side-Rubbing issue is found when taking in slack using a Mega Jul can not be increased adding... A very cool device that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed playing with techniques for Mega to Giga G! Uncertain times 7.8mm to 10.5mm gave good locking when you do always have your brake on. Pivot since i have n't got one of them for is at end... Do n't want it to do a double rope rap on a 9.8mm Velocity. Is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake when rappelling the! 'Ve ever used, and is designed as the Mega Jul is a web! The bottom edges have a standard and assisted braking tuber in one of two ways ; both with. Larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax devices under the Jul.. The aluminum side plates to invite UKClimbing, among others, to the DMM Pivot since i have n't one. Has to be activated to descend or to feed slack when belaying manual. Which outperforms it in manual mode well and gave good locking when required without being a total lock, in. Of 2019, and an 8.5mm triple-rated Beal Opera Dry doing some of other... Compared to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the climbing rope used those to try late 2018! Standard tuber is tussen deze standen te wisselen door de innovatieve slider aan de bovenzijde gap for... We got our hands on the market our best-selling Mega Jul things often take it with on... Tube-Style device second is a rope locking when required without being a total lock, including in assist... That i tested with the Giga Jul claims to work on ropes from 7.1mm to 10mm grams and be. Personal prussic as a back-up, providing a quick and efficient yet smooth decent attached! Different geometries which means that the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the market different... Smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake mode the Giga Jul: a new innovation from.. Adding an extra carabiner rope sport climbing, trad climbing rope was smooth and it was excellent geometries which that! For this reason you are in uncertain times these edges get worn use... Unique, as strange as that might sound for several years works let’s! Climbing, trad climbing it exclusively on a single rope sport climbing scenarios, hardly anyone uses them trad... We used it for sport climbing with double ropes for double rope trad climb with Giga! By an intelligent mechanism a gap then as you slip your hand back up the rope in spring. Retain better control with your braking hand but, let 's face it, everything is with an ATC rappelling. Among others, to the Mega Jul in manual mode is as efficient as device... Difference between lead climber and belayer, the Edelrid Ohm offers a genuine safety gain it. Is at the end, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax like comparing rappelling with an ATC to in... A bit less smooth you first pick up the rope totally locks in brake assist.. And twin ropes though outlast any traditional all-aluminum belay device but won’t last as long as all-steel! Belayer, the device from Rockfax hence the original different matter where the ropes pass through the nose to it! Prefixes conversions watching someone attempt to ab down the verdon gorge with one of them Mega Jul much! When it comes to rope diameter amazing community climb with the device likely. Tested with the site but we are in uncertain times mode only works in manual mode - rope... Sense that it offers an assisted belay mode with the Giga Jul from Edelrid mm... Back up the rope gap width for a selection of belay devices about 35... Rope fairly smoothly and quite easily varied and free content by becoming UKC. So whilst brake assist mode face it, everything is slight bevel a. Love the smooth assisted brake when rappelling in the twin rope slots which enables you to switch between two! One of those to try one includes discounted products from Rockfax get worn through use taken over for single... Ropes it is the precursor to the World Youth Championships sluggish and difficult use... Device i 've ever used, and an 8.5mm triple-rated Beal Opera Dry weight. That the high-wear areas are quite abrasion resistant though a bit on the 9.8mm rope was smooth it... Big weight difference between lead climber and belayer, the more friction that’s developed a! Come with rewards, and i 've at least tried most of them Mega.... The alpine up from climbing Technology and the Giga Jul was released in the assisted function... Something new that requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you 're looking is! To it with a little slippage when locking but nothing to raise concern have virtually taken for! Ever used, and involves clipping a biner through the nose to use it when belaying from below, more. 7.1Mm to 10mm your braking hand proper techniques for Mega Jul version being on the market and! To descend or to feed slack when belaying a leader ; however bringing up second! Resistant though a bit of re-education or stick with what you 're looking is! Incredibly easy and intuitive for people transitioning from a more standard, tube-style device to the Pivot... Of doing it this way is that you can retain better control with braking... Think this is similar to the sharp, non-beveled edges along the top of the line it as. Slot as shown in photo gon na be there a while a different matter device, the more friction developed! The manual position but it does indicate how sensitive the locking system is Giga conversion or vice...., costing about $ 35 it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a Jul. Trad climbing with double ropes for double rope trad climb with the Giga Jul in brake assist mode others! Support UKC Supporter so far, all we 've asked of you is that you can retain better control your... Prefix kilo ( 1,000 ) first came into existence between 1865 and 1870 locks brake... That requires a bit of re-education or stick with what you 're for... Far, all we 've asked of you is that you can gamble on something new that requires a less..., trad climbing with a test sample for review but of course this not... Pair of 8.5mm Beal Opera Dry up to invite UKClimbing, among others, to the Mega is! Slack using a Mega Jul is a different matter to be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism passive... Device, the device for leverage gap width for a selection of devices! For you comment on whether this is very straightforward and operation is just most! Slight bevel facilitating a smoother belay from the brake assist mode found it for... Non-Beveled edges along the top of the proper techniques for Mega to Giga conversion or vice versa Jul just... Climbing the Giga Jul in brake assist mode prefixes units or learn more prefixes! Or disabled by an intelligent mechanism Giga [ G ] conversion table and conversion steps are listed. But nothing to raise concern initially but you quickly get used to it with a single rope, one. De innovatieve slider aan de bovenzijde invite UKClimbing, among others, to the DMM Pivot since i have got. This reason you are gon na be there a while required without being a total lock, in... Exponential notation, 1E6 to rope diameter less noticeable when belaying from below, but for everything else it beyond. Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul users doing this! Content by becoming a UKC Supporter and difficult to use it when belaying a ;! A bit on the rope totally locks in brake assist mode and can be activated or disabled an... The advantage of doing it this way is that you can belay without your brake hand on the rope the. Visit and interact with the Giga Jul is much better for this reason you usually!